13th Century Tuscan Castle in Northern California

Castello di Amorosa, literally, ‘Castle of Love’, is the brain and love child of Dario Sattui. The Castle, not visible from Highway 29, is located on a ridgeline just south of Calistoga on the western side of the highway. An authentic and realistic recreation of an 13th Century Tuscan castle, Amorosa is true to its historic predecessors through the use of old hand made materials and methods used over 700 years ago.

The battlements and towers of Castello di Amorosa (L.Compisi)

It’s important to note that Dario Sattui is the founder of V. Sattui Winery in St. Helena named in honor of his grandfather Vittorio, who started V. Sattui Winery in San Francisco in 1885. Fortunately, Vittorio lived long enough to see his namesake opened in 1975.

The scale and size of the Castle defies one’s imagination but it becomes apparent almost immediately as you travel through the vineyards and up the curved drive. Although four of its eight levels are underground, the stone Castle looms large with its multiple rooks and turrets befitting the medieval fortress it successfully emulates.

The small menagerie below the battlements (L.Compisi)

Situated on 171 acres, with 30 planted to grapes, a moat, a drawbridge and a virtual menagerie of emu, goats and other exotics, the Castello contains all the rooms and fixtures befitting its purpose including amazingly beautiful wine cellars with vaulted ceilings. The underground cellars include the 12,000 square feet in the Grand Barrel Room as well as an additional 15,000 square feet located nearby.

A view of the Grand Barrel Room (L.Compisi

Although we had a self-guided tour a few years ago, this visit was for a media preview of the annual Grand Barrel Party earlier this month. We were fortunate to be welcomed by President and General Manager Georg Salzner and our cellar tasting was guided by Director of Winemaking Brooks Painter and Winemaker Peter Velleno. Together this duo represents over 50 years of winemaking experience. Painter, in fact, received the Andre Tchelistcheff ‘Winemaker of the Year’ award in 2013. Their experience is clearly reflected in the barrel’s we tasted.

Peter Velleno (l) and Brooks Painter (r) welcome the media (L.Compisi)
The Rosato is fermented and aged in concrete eggs (L.Compisi)

Unlike our previous barrel tasting experiences, where you taste wine that has been barreled for just a few months after harvest, these barrels were all filled with 2017 vintage wines awaiting bottling by the end of the month. The exception to this were a Rosato, a Reserve Chardonnay and four Pinot Noir from 2018 and a 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon called Trenta. In all, we tasted the wines in 19 barrels, just like the 300 guests would be experiencing that evening, however, their tickets included a lavish dinner upstairs in the Great Hall and the opportunity to purchase futures of these wines, which won’t be released until 2020.

Set for the Grand Barrel Party (:L.Compisi)

We tasted, aside from those mentioned above, Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Merlot, nine Cabernet Sauvignon and a Super Tuscan. The quality of these wines was truly outstanding and reflected the philosophy of Dario and the skills and style of winemakers Painter and Velleno. Amazingly, the small lots of exceptional quality wine are only available on premises, through the wine club or direct-to-consumer. You will not find these wines in restaurants or stores anywhere.

Two of the fabulous Cabernets in barrel (L.Compisi)
Let’s enjoy! (L.Compisi)

Castello di Amorosa is located on Hwy 29, 5 miles north of St. Helena, on the left; 3 miles south of Calistoga, on the right. Look for a large brick wall at the entrance to the driveway. 4045 St Helena Hwy, Calistoga, CA 94515. Hours of operations: Daily 9:30am – 6:00pm. Call 707.967.6272 for information.

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Posted in Adult Beverages, Amazing Sights, Barrel Tasting, Day Trips, Flights, Flights California USA, Flights North America, Italian Wines, Napa Valley, Wine Country | Leave a comment

Our Delightful Escape from Paso Robles to Monterey: Day Four

In our first three reports on this Paso Robles road trip we described the absolutely wonderful time we experienced at great Paso wineries, restaurants and hotels. Officially ‘El Paso de Robles’ and translated “The Pass of the Oaks”, is located in San Luis Obispo County. Day four of this adventure began in Paso but then headed north to the city of Monterey where other activities and pleasures ensued.

You recall, we were leading a party of eight and on this, our departure day, we had selected Calcareous Vineyards located in the western hills where the highest elevations (2,200’) occur. We were in for another very pleasant surprise.

The Tasting Room at Calcareous was wet with rain (L.Compisi)

Calcareous was founded by father and daughter, Lloyd Messer and Dana Brown, in 2000 when they realized their dream of finding a place to express their passion for wine. The property is one of the highest limestone plateaus on Paso Robles’ westside just 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Originally from Iowa, they recognized the westside of Paso Robles had potential to produce world class wines. The property includes 442 acres of calcareous rock reaching 1,800 feet above sea level with about 28 planted acres. Although Lloyd passed away in 2006, Dana has pursued their mutual vision of making exceptional wines.

The beautiful site saw the addition of the winery/cellar in 2006 and the comfortable tasting room in 2008. We were guided in our tasting by a knowledgeable team of hospitality specialists under the guiding hand of John Teeling.  The tasting room offers wine and food pairings most weekends from 12–3pm most weekends (reservations are advised) while the tasting room is open daily from 10am – 5pm. Aside from the pairings, they offer other premium seated tastings.

A vintage truck graces the production facility (L.Compisi)

We were very fortunate to get a winery tour from winemaker (winemaker since 2010) Jason Joyce. Jason, a dashing CalPoly grad, worked as an organic pharmaceutical chemist after graduating. He entered winemaking in 2007 and has released wine under his own label since 2016, Slope and Intercept. Jason expressed the challenges of making high elevation wines but it is just that challenge that keeps him juiced.  “Come for the wine ~ Stay for the view!“

The ZSM Blend was a group favorite (L.Compisi)

After our delicious visit to Calcareous our group split up and we headed north with our destination being Monterey for an overnight. The drive north up Hwy 101 to Monterey was only 116 miles (~2 hours) with a hard left on Hwy 68 to get from Salinas to the Monterey Peninsula.

Monterey is one of our favorite destinations to just relax and play. It is not that far from the Bay Area (2 hours/120 miles north to San Francisco) and it offers the best of seaside vacations with playful sea otters and kelp forests in abundance. The Monterey Bay Aquarium is a unique and beautiful place to learn about the Bay and the fish and other marine life that dwell there.

A Raft of Sea Otters enjoy lunch (L.Compisi)

The food and lodging here run the gamut of very fine (and expensive) to creative and delicious local fare down to the fairly generic tourists/chain food along the Cannery and Fisherman’s Wharf. Arriving after 3pm we decided to do the tourist things and walked from our hotel, the Wave Street Inn (more about this delightful spot later), through the nearby Cannery Row area window shopping and people watching. One of our favorite things.

We had made a reservation for dinner on Fisherman’s Wharf at a reimagined restaurant named Scales, a seafood and steak restaurant on the northside of the wharf overlooking the small boat marina. Scales (opened 2015) is owned by the second generation of the Shake family who has operated the Old Fisherman’s Grotto for over 60 years.

This plate at Scales was delicious (L.Compisi)

We found Scales to be a step or two above the food we were used to on the Wharf.  Everything seemed fresh and inviting and very tasty. The wine list was extensive, the ambiance was a bit more upscale than anything else on the wharf and the views, day or night, were eye-catching. It was fun to watch the sail boats, large and small, working their way into their slips in the marina as the winds were picking up and sundown approached. As the marina was being cloaked in darkness, we were reminded that the Super Wolf Blood Moon was rising and we had front row seats. The food and the view made for a memorable night.

Our view of the Super Bold Wolf Moon (L.Compisi)

The next day we skipped breakfast and took a walk along the bike path (old rail bed) to Schooner’s at the Monterey Bay Plaza Hotel. You just cannot beat this perfectly placed Bar and Restaurant for the views including cruise ships, sea otter rafts, bird watching, kayakers and so much more. The drinks are colorful and the food is more than good. Certainly, one of the best restaurants in the Cannery Row area.

A glass of sparkling on Schooner’s patio (L.Compisi)

Where to Stay in Monterey:  We have stayed at numerous hotels along Cannery Row, off of Light House Street and even up close to Highway One. The Wave Street Inn, fairly new addition to the Inns of Monterey, is so perfectly located it is now our favorite location for a good night’s sleep and walking distance from everything (see above).

The Wave Street employs the style of the historic canneries (Courtesy Wave Street)
The interior shot of Wave Street (Courtesy Wave Street)

The décor is sleek, modern and a treat for the eye. Parking is underneath which is also a plus in a town with very little of this scarce commodity. The outdoor garage top patio offers fresh air and a fun place to sit and enjoy a glass of wine (BYOB – look it up!). Do not expect a restaurant or breakfast on site.

The rooms are sleek and charming (L.Compisi)
The garage top patio is a great gathering place (L.Compisi)

Nearby Monterey Highlights: Carmel, Carmel Valley, Pacific Grove, 17 Mile Drive, Pebble Beach and Pt. Lobos

Where to Stay in Paso Robles: The Oaks Hotel because of the service, room quality and location. The Oaks (not to be confused with the Black Oaks Motel, also in town) has large suites and significant amenities (robes, slippers, a pool, happy hour and complimentary breakfast). The Oaks is a member of the Ascend Hotel Collection. (805-237-8700).

This concludes our wonderful escape to Paso Robles including our tasting stop at Wrath Vineyards on day 1 as well as Calcareous and Monterey.

Stay tuned for more posts to learn where we will go next and what Bites, Flights and Sights are in our future!!

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Spectacular Three Sisters of the National Parks: Reprise Part I – Sequoia National Park

Nearly three years ago I wrote the following post on another blog platform as part of a series on the National Parks. That platform has gone defunct so I thought it appropriate to re-run this post, with a couple of updates, for the benefit of my current followers, some of whom may have missed it.

August 25th, 2019 will be the 103rd Anniversary of the establishment of the National Part Service. It seems timely to publish a series on the magnificent three sisters of the southern Sierra’s, Sequoia, Kings Canyon and Yosemite National Parks. I have been overwhelmed by the immense beauty, spectacular vistas and enormous opportunities to enjoy the outdoors. Rather than try to capture all of this in a single overly long treatise, I believe it would best serve the reader and each park by addressing them individually in a three-part series. This is Part I focusing on Sequoia National Park. 

Montecito Resort at Sequoia (L.Compisi)

Sequoia is the southern most of the three sisters and may be considered the most remote.  Located about 260 miles from SF and only 200 miles from LA, it may be the least trafficked by tourists and buses, of the three. Don’t let others’ reluctance influence you. Sequoia has the largest (by wood volume) tree in the world, a Giants Forest filled with an astoundingly huge Sequoia, the General Sherman and a granite rock out cropping that will give the less adventuress individual a Half-dome style experience, Moro Rock. However, the most attractive element of Sequoia may be the ability to see black bears in the wild without traveling to wilderness areas. During our most recent visit we saw twelve black bears in two days and came a little two close, by accident about twenty-five feet away, of a young 200 pounder. Literally all of this is easily accessible for automobiles, hikers, walkers as well as handicap accessible, thanks to the National Park Service (NPS).

Playing pick-a-boo with a Black Bear (L.Compisi)

The General Sherman, so named because the U.S. Calvary actually patrolled the parks before the National Park Service took over that responsibility, stands nearly 275 feet tall and has a circumference of over 102 feet.  Pictures cannot capture the enormity of this estimated 2,700-year-old tree. The Sherman parking lot is about 10 minutes from the Wusachi Lodge, the only accommodations in the park. The walk from the lot is about 1/4 mile downhill with ramps and steps (the accessible parking lot is much closer and allows for wheel chairs). Being there at the foot of this ancient and majestic tree is awe-inspiring and somewhat of a spiritual experience.

The foot of General Sherman (L.Compisi)

Seven of the world’s existing Sequoia groves are in the Sequoia National Forest and Sequoia National Park and the Giant Forest is here as well. Situated at over 6,000 feet above sea level, the forest covers an area of 1,880 acres. Within the forest there are several worthwhile attractions including, the Auto Log (can’t drive on it anymore), the Tunnel Log (fun to drive through) and Moro Rock, for those looking for a ‘near’ Half Dome experience.

Driving through a Sequoia (L.Compisi)

For in-park lodging (unless you are an RVer or camper) Sequoia is limited to the 102 guestrooms at the Wuksachi Lodge. The Wuksachi is wilderness charming hotel with only nonsmoking rooms in the three detached buildings located a short walk away from the lodge itself. The lodge has banquet rooms for corporate events or weddings, the Peak Restaurant (serves 3 meals a day with extended hours), a bar and a gift shop. The lodge, restaurant and amenities are fitting for a wilderness lodge: comfortable and rustic, but don’t expect the Ahwanhee. 

The Wuksachi Lodge has 102 rooms (L.Compisi)

Late April-early May (we were there 5-6 May) and late October may be the best times to travel to Sequoia as the crowds are a little lighter, the weather can be more cooperative thereby making everything more enjoyable. 

The bridge on a walk behind the Lodge (L.Compisi)

Moro Rock has a set of about 400 steps in its 1/3-mile staircase from the parking lot that ascends more than 300 feet to the summit. As rigorous as this may sound, nearly anyone from children to older adults can make this trip. 

The observation platform at the top of Morro Rock (L.Compisi)
The amazing view from Morro Rock (L.ompisi)

Sequoia National Park like so many of the U.S. National Parks is a real jewel and so unique.  Don’t know why we waited so long to visit but you can bet it will not be the last time as we are already planning our return visit and it will be longer than 2 days.

Next up, Part II – Kings Canyon National Park.

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Our Delightful Escape to Paso Robles: Day Three

As I reported previously on this Paso Robles road trip, March is an absolutely wonderful time to visit the Central Coast and Paso Robles. Officially ‘El Paso de Robles’ and translated “The Pass of the Oaks”, is in San Luis Obispo County. The highest elevations (2,200’) are on the West side of the City with the heat focused on the less elevated (670’) East side of Highway 101. The 20-minute drive to the Pacific Ocean adds to the interesting climate and terroir of the area with wide diurnal temperature swings.

You may recall, we were leading a party of eight and many wineries require advanced reservations for groups larger than six. We limited our daily visits to three. In consideration of efficiency and drive times we focused this second full day on the steep hillsides of the western side of Paso Robles (Paso). With about 200 wineries in the area our choices were many. Despite having visited Paso for tasting numerous times, we had never been to the day-three wineries. We were in for a very pleasant surprise.

DAOU Vineyards and Winery is located on 212 acres at, virtually, the top of the western hills overlooking Paso Robles at 2,200 feet elevation in the Adelaida District. DAOU was established by Lebanese brothers Georges and Daniel Daou (via Paris and southern France), around 2007 with their first vintage 2009 and their first estate vintage, 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Daou Bell Tower (L.Compisi)

The Daou brothers graduated from the University of California at San Diego (Georges in 1986 and Daniel in 1987) with degrees in engineering. At DAOU they evolved the former Hoffman Mountain Ranch Winery into a virtual paradise of wine growing and wine tasting. The property is exceptionally beautiful with near 360° vistas of the surrounding area. The complex features a bell tower with a rare 1740 era bell imported from Spain.

The tasting room offers numerous indoor and outdoor spaces (L.Compisi)

The winery features Bordeaux varietals including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot as well as Syrah and a high elevation Chardonnay. We thought the 2016 Estate Micho Red ($85), a Cabernet and Merlot Blend named after their sister was truly exceptional. We also thought the 2016 Estate Mayote (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Verdot named after their mother, Marie ) was rich and well structured ($100). The 2016 DAOU Port Style Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Fortified Wine was very delicious ($100).

One of the mind-blowing outdoor spaces at Daou (L.Compisi)

Perhaps one of the most important, serious and fascinating wineries in Paso Robles is Tablas Creek. Also in the Adelaida District, Tablas Creek was established in 1989 by Robert Haas formerly of Vineyard Brands and the Perrin family, proprietors of Château de Beaucastel, in the Rhône Valley.

An appropriate sign at Tablas Creek (L.Compisi)

The tour was so informative and explained why this family I so important to Paso. Robert, along with his Perrin family partners, was the key to bringing Rhône varietals to the area. Now, 40% of the vineyards in Paso grow Rhône varietals. Production ranges from 25-30k cases annually with about 40% estate. Tablas Creek makes extensive use of ‘pudras’, 1,200 gallon barrels for wine storage.

Tablas Creek uses traditional Pudas for wine storage (L.Compisi)

The Paso Robles Wine Community recognized Bob as the 2007 Wine Industry Person of the Year, and in 2014 he received a lifetime achievement award from Rhône Rangers for his contributions to the American Rhône movement. Haas passed away in March 2018 but his son Jason has, ably, stepped into his shoes.

Our Tablas Creek guide demonstrates a innovative grafting tool (L.Compisi)

The last stop of the day was Halter Ranch also in the Adelaida District of Paso Robles. Another fairly young winery established in 2000 by a gentleman of Swiss origin whose family is committed to land preservation globally. The estate is located on 2,200 acres, with 281 acres planted to 13 varietals. All vintages are hand harvested at night due to the day time heat extremes.

The Halter Ranch tasting toom is less then 3 years old and Fab! (L.Compisi)

Halter Ranch is a pretty amazing property less than a mile from Tablas Creek. The production facility that we toured is world-class and the member/visitor space and tasting room is equally impressive, new in 2016. In keeping with the owner’s passion, there is an 800-year-old California Live Oak within view.

Halter Ranch State of the Art gravity flow production facility (L.Compisi)

The harvest is conducted at night and 100% by hand to afford the pickers, and the grapes, the advantage of night time coolness. Total production hovers around 24,000 cases. We all thought that the 2016 CDP (Côtes de Paso – $38) was a fresh, bright and well-structured Rhône Red Blend. The 2018 Rosé ($28) was also worthy of note as indicated below.

View through the glass at Halter Ranch (L.Compisi)

The 2018 Rosé was awarded ‘Best Rosé’ at the 2019 Monterey Wine Competition. Even more exciting for this destination winery is the award of ‘Winery of the Year’ at the same competition.

It bears mentioning that Paso plays host, on a biannual basis, for a splendid event called Hospice du Rhône. As one might guess, the 4-day event focuses on the delight wines of the Rhône Valley in France. Of course, I mean Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Picpoul, Clairette, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre , among others. The wineries represented come from both U.S. and international producers including nearly half from the Rhone Valley. The seminars are informative and fascinating.

Where to Stay: The Oaks Hotel because of the service, room quality and location. The Oaks (not to be confused with the Black Oaks Motel, also in town) has large suites and significant amenities (robes, slippers, a pool, happy hour and complimentary breakfast). The Oaks is a member of the Ascend Hotel Collection. (805-237-8700)

The Happy Hour Bar at The Oaks Hotel (L.Compisi)

Nearby: Paso Robles is a short drive from the pristine Pacific Ocean coastline, the renowned Hearst’s Castle, and quaint beach towns.

Getting There:  From the north take U.S. Highway 101 south from San Francisco to Paso Robles (Paso) – about 4 hours (~205 miles).

From the south take I 5 to exit 278 Highway then follow CA 46 west to Paso. From Los Angeles – about 3hrs and 40 minutes, depending upon traffic. A real gathering spot for northern and southern California wine lovers.

Stay tuned for the following posts to learn where we toured and tasted on days 4 of our ‘Delightful Escape to Paso Robles’! Also, where we stayed and dined in Monterey on our way home.

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Our Delightful Escape to Paso Robles: Day Two

As I reported in the Day 1 posting of this Paso Robles road trip, March is an absolutely wonderful time to visit the Central Coast and Paso Robles. Paso Robles, or officially El Paso de Robles, is in San Luis Obispo County. Translated it means “The Pass of the Oaks.”  Paso Robles’ elevation averages 740 feet above sea level (between 675’ and 1,100’). The highest elevations are on the west side of the City with the heat focused on the East side of Highway 101. The proximity to the Pacific Ocean (a 20-minute drive west) adds to the interesting climate and terroir of the area with wide overnight (diurnal) temperature swings.

Our party of eight was large and many wineries require advanced reservations for groups larger than six. Knowing that and not wanting to race through our tastings, we limited our daily visits to three. In consideration of efficiency and drive times we focused this first full day on the warmer, eastern side of Paso Robles (Paso). With about 200 wineries in the area we had a larger number of choices.

Our first stop was Vina Robles Vineyards and Winery just south of Highway 46E and four miles from the downtown city park. Vina Robles is the brainchild of two Swiss entrepreneurs named Hans. Established in the late 1990s, Vina Robles has grown to encompass 1,600 planted acres, growing 25 grape varieties and includes an entertainment Amphitheater on the property.


The Club Members room (L.Compisi)

The Amphitheater hosts about 30 musical events throughout the year with well-known performers. The tasting room is beautiful and was opened 10 years ago. Case production is about 45,000 cases but growing. We tasted Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Tannat.  Everyone in our group thought the Tannat was exceptional.

Family owned wineries can be small, medium and large and family direct participation can vary but J.Lohr, headquartered in San Jose, California represents one of our favorites. Large, over 1.5 million cases, with direct family involvement, siblings Steve (CEO), Cynthia and Lawrence Lohr continue the adventure their dad, Jerry and mom, Carol started in 1971. Beginning in the Central Coast, J.Lohr now has 3700 acres of planted vines in Paso Robles, Monterey and Napa Counties.


The gang suited up for the tour (S.Peck)

We were fortunate to be guided on our tour and tasting by Steve Peck, Director of Winemaking extraordinaire during our visit. The production facility is world-class with a barrel room housing 12,000 barrels. Quite amazing. The wines range from a very approachable price point of $10 for a Cypress Grove Chardonnay up to $100 for the delicious and well-structured Signature Cabernet Sauvignon. The tasting room is dated but plans are in the works to expand and upgrade. There is a wine for every palate and the hospitality is unmatched.


The White Flight (L.Compisi)

Steve Peck our guide ‘extraordinaire’ (L.Compisi)

Gary Eberle is known at the ‘Pioneer’ of Paso Robles wine region having moved there in in the 1970’s. He cofounded Estrella River Winery & Vineyards, now owned by Bronco Wine Company, and began his own project in the late 70s. This year Gary is celebrating the 40th anniversary of his first Eberle wine. Debuting his 1979 Cabernet Sauvignon with the iconic boar logo, which depicts the German origin of the name Eberle, meaning “small boar. Gary’s son Chris is the winemaker now but Gary still greet visitors, like he did during our visit, at the tasting room.


Our Fav, the Barbera (L.Compisi)

Eberle produces about 25,000 cases annually and had 38 planted acres on his 6
4-acre property. We tasted about 12 wines and decided we enjoyed the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) and 2016 Barbera ($36) the most. All palates are different and sometimes they change during a single day.

The stained glass version of the iconic boar (L. Compisi)

Where to Dine: Il Cortile in downtown Paso Robles’ is a fine dining Italian Restaurant. We have been several times and always enjoy the seasonal menus. Executive Chef and owner Santos MacDonal, provides a vast array of exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, top quality meats and antipasti created with the freshest locally sourced ingredients.


Delicious Salmon Il Cortille (L.Compisi)

The evening we were there, a Monday, Chef MacDonal and his son were visible in the small kitchen. The service was exceptional and the food delectable. Reservations are always recommended via OpenTable or directly by phone: 805-226-0300. Il Cortille Ristorante is located at 608 12th Street, Paso Robles.

Where to Stay: The Oaks Hotel because of the service, room quality and location. Only about 7 years old, The Oaks has large suites and significant amenities (robes, slippers, a pool, happy hour and complimentary breakfast).

The welcoming reception area of The Oaks Hotel (L.Compisi)

The personal service and kindness of the Oaks team makes you feel at home.  Located about 1.5 miles north of the central Paso Robles Park, you wouldn’t want to walk into town but with free parking, that should not be an issue. Additionally, there are several restaurants (and a Starbucks) within walking distance if you would rather walk. The Oaks is a member of the Ascend Hotel Collection. (805-237-8700)

Paso Robles and vicinity: Paso is a uniquely friendly community sprinkled with talented winemakers, artists, farmers, ranchers, and cowboys. It hosts the California Mid-State Fair at the end of July (17-28 July 2019) featuring horse shows, carnival rides and big-name musical entertainment (the music actually runs year round). Miranda Lambert and Blake Shelton will appear this year.

Paso Robles is a short drive from the pristine Pacific Ocean coastline, the renowned Hearst’s Castle, and quaint beach towns like Cambria and Morro Bay.

Getting There: 
From the north take U.S. Highway 101 south from San Francisco to Paso Robles (Paso) – about 4 hours (~205 miles).
From the south take I 5 to exit 278 Highway then follow CA 46 west to Paso. From Los Angeles – about 3hrs and 40 minutes, depending upon traffic. A real gathering spot for northern and southern California wine lovers.

Stay tuned for the next posts to learn where we toured and tasted on days 3 through 4 of our ‘Delightful Escape to Paso Robles’!

HINT: Daou, Halter Ranch and Tablas Creek.

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Our Delightful Escape to Paso Robles: Day One

March is an absolutely wonderful time to visit California’s Central Coast and Paso Robles is the perfect wine country to visit during this shoulder season. We did exactly that a few weeks ago for 3 days, leaving our perch in northern Sonoma County.

Wrath uses clay Dolium for fermenting their
Falanghina (Italian grape) – (photo Linda Compisi)

Paso Robles, or officially El Paso de Robles, is in San Luis Obispo County. Translated it means “The Pass of the Oaks.”  The City’s elevation averages 740 feet above sea level (between 675’ and 1,100’). The proximity to the Pacific Ocean (a 20-minute drive west) adds to the interesting climate and terroir of the area. The highest elevations are on the west side of the City with the heat focused on the East side of Highway 101.

The drive from San Francisco to Paso Robles (Paso) is about 3 hours (~200 miles). Add another hour and a half (90 miles) from our house. Coincidentally, Paso is about the same travel time (3 hours/~200 miles) from Los Angeles making it a real gathering spot for northern and southern California.

But I am getting ahead of myself. We were traveling with a group of six friends from our Sonoma County area and had to consider that in making our plans. (Note: Most wineries want a reservation for parties larger than six sour party of eight required advanced planning.) In addition, our long drive, over 4 hours, made a stop along the way desirable. With that in mind, we arranged to stop in the Soledad vicinity at Wrath Wines.

Wrath outdoor tasting space (photo Linda Compisi)

Wrath produces about 7,000 cases of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc from their estate vineyard and respected properties in the neighboring Santa Lucia Highlands. Production is small, distribution limited and the wines reveal their terroir.

Wrath is a Monterey AVA but the Santa Lucia Highlands, in the back ground, borders the property.
(photo Linda Compisi)

Aside from their normal bottlings, Wrath also produces wine in cans, the perfect answer for poolside, picnics and at the beach where glass is not particularly welcome. We sampled the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc in cans. Quite delightful and crisp! Our tour guide and tasting host was Nicole and she knew her stuff. If you arrange a visit, be sure to ask about their ‘haunted house’ which is visible from the property. Interestingly, Wrath also produces a Falanghina, an Italian grape varietal known for its very bright, racy acidity. Their version is balanced with lush fruit flavors and a pronounced bouquet of ripe apricot.

Onward to Paso. 

Where we stay: We arrived in Paso around 4pm and immediately checked into our hotel. We had chosen The Oaks Hotel. Linda and I had stayed there at least 3 times before and returned because of the service, room quality and location. Only about 7 years old, The Oaks has large suites and significant amenities (robes, slippers, a pool, happy hour and complimentary breakfast). The Oaks is a member of the Ascend Hotel Collection.

The Oaks Hotel in Paso Robles (photo Linda Compisi)

We have always been impressed with the personal service and kindness of the Oaks team.  Located about 1.5 miles north of the central Paso Robles Park, you wouldn’t want to walk into town but with free parking and driving into the area, that should not be an issue. Additionally, there are several restaurants (and a Starbucks) within walking distance if you would rather walk.

Our Junior King Suite was exceptional (photo Linda Compisi)

We walked to Rustic Pizza for dinner. Convenient to the Oaks, Rustic has more than Pizza but not much to recommend it. We have been here before and our experience was a bit better. This time the service was slow and tables were hard to find, and this was during a slower season.

Getting to Wrath Wines:  From the north, take U.S. Highway 101 south from San Francisco to Soledad – about 3 hours (~130 miles). Wrath is only about 50 minutes/40 miles from Monterey.

Stay tuned for the following posts to learn where we toured and tasted on days 2 through 4 of our ‘Delightful Escape to Paso Robles’!

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Wintering on Mendocino’s Spectacular Coast

What can one do on a cold winter weekend or even mid-week adventure in Northern California?  We say, explore the Mendocino Coast.  The Mendocino Coast is truly spectacular and for those of us who might become depressed or feel cooped up during our short but sometimes gloomy wine country winter scenes, there is nothing more exhilarating than the crash of the Pacific along this rugged and sometimes daunting coastline.

The wild Pacific Ocean from Harvest House (L.Compisi)

What does one do on the Mendocino (Mendo) Coast during the Winter months? The coastal area is rich with parks each with a diversity of landscapes. From the Ecological Staircase at Jug Handle State Park to the waterfall at Russian Gulch, one can explore coastal beaches, redwood groves and fern canyons. There are so many options it is difficult to make a short list but here’s a few ideas especially now that we see the light at the end ‘funnel’ (rain that is).

Our default activity is to walk the craggy beaches or the treacherous coastal bluffs while scanning the ocean surface for the possibility of a whale spouting (November through April, Gray and Humpback whales make their annual migration). In fact, three Mendocino venues hosts an annual Whale Festival during the first three weekends in March with activities occurring in Mendocino town, Little River and Fort Bragg. The town of Mendocino also offers coastal trails as does the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens in Fort Bragg.

Another favorite is Van Damme State Park with 1,831 acres of land near the town of Little River on State Route 1. It was named for Charles Van Damme, who was born in the area and purchased the land with profits from a San Francisco ferry business he owned. The Park includes ten miles of hiking trails along the Little River and exceptional campsites (if you’re into that, we’re not). A free parking lot, on the ocean side of Highway 1, provides access to Little River Beach at the mouth of the Little River, which is also part of the park (paid parking exists on the park side). The waters offshore from the beach form the Van Damme State Marine Conservation Area. Check this out for kayak tours. We enjoyed hiking inland following an improved trail along a delightful creek.


Hiking in Van Damme St. Park (L.Compisi)
Creek Trail in Van Damme St. Park (L.Compisi)

Ride The Mendocino Skunk Train, a local favorite that you have to try. The 131-year-old train has been recognized by USA Today and by the National Geographic Traveler as the best train tour and best family activity in America. This historic locomotive takes you through amazing landscapes following century old logging routes. You’ll pass through tunnels, bridges, meadows, and towering trees and get a glimpse of the amazing wildlife of Northern California. There are different experiences including (Be aware that tickets prices vary seasonally):

Wolf Tree Turn ($49 – 2 hours): a two-hour round trip from the Willits valley floor to the highest point of the track. Includes a 1,740-foot summit ascent above the Noyo River Canyon in the middle of the redwood groves.

Pudding Creek Express ($27 – 1 hour): The 7-mile route departs from the Fort Bragg depot and goes all the way to Pudding Creek Estuary. Nature lovers delight.  An hour-long tour best experienced in the morning.  

The Skunk Train from Ft. Bragg (Courtesy Visit Ft. Bragg)

Point Arena Lighthouse offers 360-degree views of the ocean, coastal meadows, and mountains to the east. The top of the Point Arena Lighthouse stands 115 feet tall and has done so since 1908. Entrance Tips: Check the website for current rates and hours. As of this posting the Lighthouse is open 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day and 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Everyday Labor Day to Memorial Day weekend.

Point Arena Light House (Courtesy Light House Friends)

Visit the Redwoods at Navarro River Redwoods State Park for a combination Redwoods, river and ocean experience. Literally where the Redwoods meet the Pacific Ocean. Sometimes referred to as eleven-mile-long redwood tunnel to the sea, the park is situated along Highway 128 and terminates at the junction of Highway 1. Visitors beware that current weather conditions can cause last minute closings.

Navarro River looking toward the Pacific (Courtesy Navarro River Redwoods State Park)

Where to Stay:

You will find it very difficult to find an inn that combines coastal views, delightfully intimate rooms and fine dining more to your liking than the Albion River Inn in Albion. The Inn has a fascinating history that includes a stint as a blacksmith shop, a Ford dealership and an earlier incarnation of the restaurant. The current history begins 38 years ago, in 1981, when Flurry Healy and co-owner Peter Wells purchased the 10-acre property. They gutted the existing restaurant and set about, over many years, building the existing 20 cottages along the magnificent bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Adding texture and drama to this stunning location is the Albion River Bridge, an historic wooden deck truss bridge crossing the mouth of the Albion River just adjacent to the Inn property. At 300 meters long and 150 feet above the river, it is the last wooden bridge on California State Route 1. Best of all, the bar and restaurant keep you out of your car because the food and beverages are first class.

Dining at Albion River Inn is dreamy (L.Compisi)
Resting at the Albion River Inn is dreamier (L.Compisi)

The Little River Inn is a classic coastal resort with spectacular ocean views, The Inn boasts a long legacy of authentic family hospitality. The fifth generation, including Innkeeper Cally Dym and her husband, Executive Chef Marc Dym, is currently at the helm, happily welcoming guests just as the family has done since 1939. The rooms are fabulous with balconies overlooking the majestic Pacific Ocean. Marc’s culinary adventures will keep you coming back whether you stay overnight or make it a day trip. The Inn is located at 7901 N. Highway One, Little River, CA 95456 Email at Info@LittleRiverInn.com or telephone toll free at 1-888-INN-LOVE for reservations.

The view from our room at the Little River Inn (L.Compisi)

Heritage House Resort was made famous in the critically acclaimed 1978 romantic comedy, “Same Time Next Year”, starring Alan Alda and Ellen Burstyn.  The resort became the third lead in the film version (it was first a theatrical play in 1975). The resort is perched high above the Pacific Ocean on 37 rugged and dramatic acres of eucalyptus and cypress.

View from our cottage at the Heritage House (L.Compisi)
The Redwood Split Fencing is perfectly alluring (L.Compisi)

The resort consists of a main complex that houses the office, restaurant, bar/lounge and some of the guest quarters.  Most of the guest accommodations are happily scattered around the 37 acres making them all seem quite private and secluded. The most important aspect of these cabins are their amazing views of the dramatic coastline, hidden coves and the mesmerizing ocean! With 5 miles of redwood split rail fencing and a 73-step stairway to the beach, the Heritage House Resort offers abundant walking space and numerous dramatic vantage points for enjoying the surroundings.

View below the Heritage House (L.Compisi)

For those of you who would like to add some winetasting to your get-away, consider the Madrones in Philo, part of the Anderson Valley. Proprietor Jim Roberts has created a bit of heaven in the midst of Mendocino wine country.  Located in the heart of the valley, between Boonville and Philo, The Madrones is the current incarnation of Jim’s passion for interior design. Sporting only about 10 rooms, each is unique in design and furnishings. You’ll want to return several times to try to find your favorite.

Every room at The Madrones is unique and beautiful (L.Compisi)

There are several other venues that offer structured experiences. Some to consider:

Avenue of the Giants 

Montgomery Woods State Reserve 

Point Arena Lighthouse

The point of it all is that Mendocino Coast offers so many amazing adventures, pleasures and experiences, the only thing missing is you.

Nourish your soul… one bite, flight and sight at a time!

Posted in Adventure, Amazing Sights, Coastal Adventures, Culinary, Day Trips, Hiking, Mendocino County, North Coast, Restaurants, Road Trip, Travel, Travel USA, Wine Country | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments